But which is better, safer, more reliable?I've never see anyone use a double bowline for climbing...interesting. Overhand Loop 35% 65% 100% line strength. I've never seen these knots before.Your picture at the top is a double figure eight not a figure eight.Unfortunately, there are a lot of myths and not much peer reviewed research on these knots under the pressures they would likely endure in a typical rock climbing belay system (dynamic force, such as a fall, as opposed to static force). Pros And Cons Of A Double Loop Figure 8 Knot Great hub about knots!Sorry for those of you who need a definitive answer, but I have to conclude that the choice between the double bowline and the figure eight is a matter of preference. Bob!! The Double Loop Figure 8 Knot is a loop knot. Remember that tying knots is a perishable skill that must be practiced until it becomes second nature.©2009-2020 ITS Tactical // Imminent Threat Solutions. However, there are many advantages to the double bowline for lead climbers and the safety rating is well within the range of acceptable risk.HubPages Inc, a part of Maven Inc.As a user in the EEA, your approval is needed on a few things. Bowline 70-75%. I do it a little differently. Weidner says it also takes more time and expertise to visually inspect the bowline, even when you know the knot well. Also known as the Super Eight, Canadian Eight, or Double-Loop Figure-Eight, the Double Figure-Eight on a Bight can be advantageous in situations that might call for the extra security of a second loop. Low friction tightening Bowline 33% 67% . Here is a list of some common knots and the translating remaining rope strength. Most all of the joining knots required backup knots. Double Fisherman 21% strength loss equals 79% Efficiency . After you slowly draw the figure eight down by pulling on the tag end of the line only tie 1 simple over hand knot around the standing part of the line (not 2 like in your video) and draw the figure 8 knot up against the single overhand knot. It’s easy to teach and it’s easy to safety check. !This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.You could spend hours mining mountaineering and climbing forums for an answer, but you'll quickly come to realize that these forum commentators repeat themselves A LOT and that no one seems to have any real proof or data except "I use it and I haven't died yet." Knot Strength. There are several good options for creating a loop knot but tied in heavy salt water tippet, like you use for tarpon, most get quite bulky. A Butterfly knot had the highest efficiency in the 10.5mm at over 80%. Figure 8 Loop 20% 80% . Figure 8 Bend 19% 81% . Water Knot 60-70%. Then you’ll love our podcast!A carabiner can become cross-loaded in a fall and become twisted, producing a weak link. All Rights Reserved.The Figure-Eight on a Bight is ideal for tying into any point along a line to act as an anchor point. To provide a better website experience, hubpages.com uses cookies (and other similar technologies) and may collect, process, and share personal data.

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